It isn’t hitting it locally is the issue. Not an uncommon problem with plex unfortunately, its going out to come back in, so the server and client see it as remote.
Without playback you wouldn’t even be able to see that in the dashboard, which just makes the direction Plex is going so much more problematic.
Like I said, better off using JF.
Remote, yes, they announced you need Plex pass one side or the other for it to work.
Local, no, that shouldn’t happen. Your device isn’t reaching your Plex server locally.
To work around the remote issue, you can VPN to your local network.
But you’re better off in the long haul with Jellyfin as you’re doing now.
Maybe it’ll detect it as mass storage media and give it access to the built in audio system.
It won’t. Both will be acting as host, so thats not going to work out.
What car do you have?
Else, I’ll just use a bluetooth speaker I have at home. I don’t need good audio for “turn left/turn right”, just to hear it.
Didn’t you want to use it for your music as well with navidrome?
I’ve had Waze become useless three times in the span of two years because they pushed updates that made the app unstable enough to not be reliable.
CoMaps may be up your alley, uses OSM.
I’ll try the recovery mode for my phone and see if that helps!
Hope that works for you regardless, it was an absolute pain when my wife’s phone update (Samsung) broke android auto and Bluetooth connections. Especially since I just bought the car a few weeks before.
How do you plan to get audio in? Bluetooth? Wired audio input?
In your first post you were calling it a head unit, which would replace everything. Given the picture, you have a more fully integrated android auto compatible system rather than a traditional head unit, so I understand why the other commenter pointed to that - its similar to what I would have suggested, which would be to get a din cover appropriately sized, then cut out for a screen.
So the question becomes how do you want to hear and/or see? That would decide placement requirements. For example, I have a nice spot in the passenger seat I could easily hide it behind a panel under the dash, but the audio input I’d have to bring over to the armrest. So I’d run a cable under the carpet to the aux input, bring it up the side of the armrest and plug it in.
FWIW, your phone may work nicely by rebooting into recovery and wiping the cache partition. That resolved things for my wife and her car, no issues or trouble since.
Sorry short hand for tiny/mini/micro. Lenovo tiny, dell micro, and HP mini, some generic used, some I grab from work after their desktop life is done.
Great little workhorses
My NAS just stores, its my stack of tmm’s that do all the heavy lifting.
Though I use a front end for everything, like jellyfin, audiobookshelf, kavita, etc.
You’ve got my 2011 Mac mini beat! I think thats rocking 4gb (basically just gcompris for my kids)
My solution was HDMI in as others suggested. Currently a picture slideshow screensaver for Kodi, previously a rooted firestick.
I wonder if it is because you added that way, rather than from f-Droid or something.
No idea. If I had a spare still running android (trying out postmarketos on a few devices) I’d like to give it a try. Maybe I’ll spin up a VM.
What apps?
No idea. Play Store then update itself via its at store rev? Preinstalled on a ROM? Via adb?
That said, all the link refers to is a few sample permissions (which would not include F-Droid from that list) and only via certain methods being downloaded. Or they have it wrong and its “opened from”.
Its still shitty, but as of now I’m not sure if there is any impact to installing F-Droid, but I can say the method of installation has complied with previous versions of googles “protections” (as in forced limitations) and that appears to continue to be true.
How did you install aurora store?
I’m curious because ive seen no issues with F-Droid (just had a few updates actually), and the F-Droid team have commented on this sort of approach before, including the method being used for installation.
I don’t use aurora, so I’m not overly familiar.
Just FYI, no, F-Droid will not be impacted.
Links in this comment explain, they are incorrect about how F-Droid works.
F-Droid uses Session Installer, which is an “app store” method.
This is not a new issue:
https://www.androidauthority.com/android-15-restricted-settings-sideloading-3481098/
That doesnt appear to be true, the restriction seems to be on apps being installed from file managers, web browsers, messaging, etc.
F-droid and the like are not part of that list.
This still isn’t good, but it doesnt stop you from having F-droid manage your messaging apps it would seem.
Edit: If you’re down voting because you think its using the same method as a file manager as the user that replied to me, this is incorrect. This is also an issue going back several versions.
F-Droid uses a session installer method for 3rd party app stores, it does not use the same method as a file manager.
For an article about a similar issue brought up by similar restrictions in previous updates, you can refer to this article:
https://www.androidauthority.com/android-15-restricted-settings-sideloading-3481098/
You can also refer to this thread in the F-Droid forums which covers this as well, from 2 1/2 years ago:
Which also includes a merged discussion from the last time this came up 9 months ago.
F-Droid has been using the session installer method for quite some time.
Pfft, just need a better word for it.
“Patriot Control” or “Freedom Ownership”.
Simple and with words that make it sound like a 4th of July celebration.
You realize I’m not the same person, right? So maybe change the attitude a bit.
120Hz wasn’t in your original question. For that you’d need to be in direct view LED territory, which is going to be in the $150k+ range, like an FE012I3 (at least with Sharp/NEC).
Sony has a line of Bravia post production OLEDs, the FWD-##A95Ls ( the number is the sizing) which is going to be a phenomenal production quality display. $7k-$10k.
LG and Samsung are all WebOS and Tizen respectively, but the versions are different than the consumer version. So its “smart”, but not in the same way as consumer editions - sampling content and other such things would be a legal nightmare for them. So if you want “smart” but not “consumer smart” you can go that route, but expect about twice the price.
Edit: I suppose I can toss Planar into the mix here, different business purpose and youre not buying them at best buy. They are more of a 24x7 operation design. I don’t think 120hz is on the sale list yet though, those will be part of the UltraRes series.
That wasn’t the question, but sure.
Commercial series displays. Most of those now have the same (well, same base at least) OS on them though.
I’d say Sharp/NEC would be the only “dumb” professional series displays, at least of the major manufacturers.
You’ll be at around $1500-$3000 for a nominal 80" (they make a 75" and an 86").
Ring ring ring ring ring… Obama phone…