I recommended this on the first post, surprised they didn’t try it.

I see 3 options.

1, adjust your z-offset. I’m not familiar with prusa’s firmware, but if your first layer is bulging, it could mean your z-offset needs adjusting.

2, see if your first layer line thickness is set above 100%. By default some slicers lay an extra thick first layer; you might try decreasing this.

3, get rid of the white on the first layer, and just make the second layer white. This is how I do multi-color lettering/ designs and it works incredibly well. I can show you pictures if my description doesn’t make sense.

Damn, Scott Manley. Haven’t heard that name since the Kerbal Space Program days.

Reading the article, it seems like the intent of this technology is much more geared toward manufacturing supply chains, rather than saying “this part came from John Doe’s Ender 3”. As many people have pointed out, consumer/ hobbyist grade 3D printers aren’t nearly consistent enough to produce anything resembling something as unique as a true “fingerprint”, and when you consider that most printers are modified in some way… There’s just zero possibility of it being used in that way.

The only way I could see it being used in that way is trying to prove that this printer printed this part; if they have the printed part, and it hasn’t been post-processed at all (sanded, treated, etc), they could reprint the same part on the printer in question and see if it’s “fingerprint” is the same. But I’d be pretty surprised if this tech could even reliably say, “this part came from an Ender, this part came from a Neptune, and this one from came from a P1”.

I didn’t look super closely at first and thought this was one of those full build plate adhesion tests and was getting ready to say how it was a waste of time to get it that dialed in. Yeah, melting heat mat is definitely a problem.

Your printer has the hidden ability of being able to melt plastic 😉

I haven’t looked to see if one already exists.

But, like someone else said, this would be relatively easy to model.

I would go about it in a different way; here’s a quick drawing:

Make the loop for the plug side slightly smaller than the diameter of the cable so it’s a super snug fit, and the other side with a large enough gap that you can easily push the cable through it.